How Autonomous Take care of your lawn in 5 easy steps

Most aspects of the transition to an organic garden takes time and perseverance to learn new things. There's a whole new philosophy involved as well as new products and skills necessary to learn and master. How to care for your lawn organically is no exception. Here's how you could get that in just 5 steps.

Step 1. Great care of the lawn you have. This is important because a healthy lawn that can cover all types of weed seeds and prevent a lothealth problems that may occur in your lawn. If you never jump or skip this step, you end up with bald spots where weed seeds can germinate, and you'll be tempted to go back to using chemical herbicides.

Step 2. Mow at the highest setting. This could be a crucial step, which requires the greatest attention. Do it right, like this: Whatever the highest level of the mower, safe and orderly all four wheels. I can not stress enough how important it is to mow high, becausehelps grass roots cool, conserve moisture which gives the lawn and helps earthworms and beneficial soil microorganisms thrive. You can mow as high as 3 cm. Do not try more than 1 / 4 to 1 / 5 of the grass "total cut off each time you mow. More and you're out on the lawn to be cut in the stems and leaves are not. You end up with grass straw.

Step 3. Leave the grass on the lawn. What we are going to do is cut frequently, and ahigher setting, and leave the clippings on the lawn. If you have only 1 / 4 to mow 1 / 5 of the total height of the grass blade each time you mow, and then letting the cuttings is not a problem because small scraps break easily and seamlessly into a meadow. Leaving the clippings helps to naturally fertilize the lawn slowly and naturally. This reduces dependence on chemical fertilizers and reducing pests, fed slowly decreases due to the nature of the over-fast, sicklygrowth of lawn pests love to eat.

Step 4. Repair any damaged areas dogs quickly. And to explain that a bit ', if you have bare spots where the dog peed on the lawn, let the weeds grow in the bald areas quickly to strengthen. Neutralize the acid, using a layer of straw, compost and add grass seed for your baldness and watered regularly.

Step 5. Extensive use of compost on the lawn. In addition, top dress your lawn in spring and autumn with a minimum of 1 / 2 inchlayer of compost applied throughout your lawn. This helps keep the lawn green and well fed, with no artificial drainage or pest problems. It also strengthens the harvest of the land.

If these steps, you have an organic lawn. Yes Pat yourself on the back and congratulate yourself for having made!

If you are not the good advice above ... good luck anyway. Probably you need.

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Aspen trees - Shimmering Beauty of Nature

Known for their golden fall foliage, poplars are the only broad-leaved tree in the Rocky Mountains. Aspen individual living about 100 years. However, Aspen reproduce by sprouting shoots from their roots. This allows them to grow in a cohesive group. Thus, a forest is actually a living organism that can reach several thousand years old. Even damage that fire will not kill a grove of poplar trees and the roots stay alive. Maybe that's why the trees symbolize Aspendetermination and overcoming fears and doubts.

The Aspen is the most common tree in North America and the second most popular in the world. The Aspen is developed from the Atlantic coast in the south as Virginia, through Alaska and the Arctic Circle. In western countries, Aspen in the West live at higher elevations, usually between 6,500 and 10,000 meters, in highlands and mountain areas.

The characteristic of fluttering leaves of Aspen is one of thetheir salient features. Aspen leaves are flat rather than round in cross section. This means turning Aspen leaves, from left to right or flutter, while remaining relatively stable in the vertical. The shimmering effect the results, the typical Aspen "earthquake."

The bark of poplar contain chlorophyll, so that Aspen will continue to grow, even in the winter months. Aspens as cool, dry summers, abundant sunshine and snow in winter. Poplars are often found growing in associationwith pine, poplar and willow.

Poplars are the main source of food and shelter for about five hundred species. The leaves, twigs and bark are favored by deer and elk and bears blacks, cottontail, porcupine, snowshoe hares, partridges, quail, shrews, mice and beavers.

Aspen are also valuable for the production of paper, animal feed and habitat. Although it is not strong enough for most types of building, Aspen paintings are sometimes used for the floors of stalland stables.

All in all, the Aspen trees are special plants that their unique qualities to add to many forests around the planet. For the beauty of nature changing nature walk next time!

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Milky Spore Grub Control

Japanese beetles are responsible for the beetle larvae that destroy entire lawns. They mate in July and shortly after their eggs in the soil of lawns. The eggs then hatch in late July and early August and the larvae are the result of a mess of peat. Milky spore grub control is perhaps the best solution for me, before causing considerable damage.

Meadows in entire neighborhoods destroyed, and some with no result. Unfortunately, much of the damageplace without prior notification to the owners until the following spring. The larvae feed on grass roots, creating such a patch of grass sponge. Some animals, like raccoons and skunks, and other feeding larvae, making homeowners more upset when they wake up turf.

These animals refute the turf to reach their food. Any damage occurring during August, September and October. Once the weather turns colder and the direction of mid-late October,deepen more larvae to survive.

It is therefore necessary that the lawn treated with milky spore for grub control when these eggs hatch and the larvae feeding phase, namely the end of July or early August for best results. The more mature the caterpillar and the next begins the treatment, the more difficult to control.

The best treatment, milky spore is actually organic and safe for children and pets. Milky spore is a bacterium, has a phenomenal way. Onceapplied, the larvae continue to feed on grass roots as usual, but now the ingestion of bacteria in the final (kill approximately 1 to 3 weeks). Once killed, taking the track, dead grub actually active bacteria multiply in it. If it falls to pieces, literally billions of new tracks into the earth becomes more larvae died. Cold or drought does not affect the bacteria.

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Lawn Areators

To make sure you water your lawn will actually reach the roots, you should look like a lawn aerator can help. This lawn and garden equipment consists of a long stem with two teeth on each side. Using the teeth that can provide holes in the lawn or plants around for moisture and nutrients to reach roots. Alternatively, a water-injected version of this tool. This version has an optional brass off to check the waterthat goes into the soil.

The aerator makes holes up to 4 inches deep, which eliminates any possibility of soil compaction. You can easily use them in areas where the soil is compacted and difficult to dig. In areas where it is hot in summer and not much rain, you can be sure that the water will come from the roots. High traffic areas of the lawn in places that have become dehydrated will really benefit from this system.

The use of water injection in combinationaerator with everything you need to do is connect the hose to the tool. You put water at high pressure and teeth in the ground with his foot. We continue to press until the bottom plate to the ground. You leave the vent in the ground until the water reaches the surface foam and bubbles. You see a ring of water nearby. You have this process in other areas of the lawn again.

There is also a style that you can use coring aeratorsmall area of lawn. These may be places that need immediate attention and do the whole lawn. You can choose from aerators that 3, 4 or 5 teeth.

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Magnolia tree planting and care

Magnolias are plants that are easy to grow and are free from disease. magnolias are native and found in the southeastern United States. They can grow to a height of 80 meters and are one of the southern landscape architecture because of its large trees and thick leaves are heavy with white flowers.

Are considered the surface of plant roots and you can be aware of new roots, which are often visible above the ancient roots of the strain to a plant or transplant graftsplant a seedling. Connect it to a natural wooded area in which originally came from, the roots will become more prominent and leaf take nutrients are released by breaking down the fallen leaves. This adaptation, contributing to a fresh medium, or say, a moist soil, so that more respect is paid after planting.

As mentioned, magnolias tend to throw some 'left over the years if they are exposed orstress. They do not grow good enough after their roots are insulated from the sun, that is, or are in the shade of other plants or by themselves.

In plants, magnolias, consider how the soil is moist and the amount of compost to exist. Dig a hole twice the diameter of a clod be placed in the hole. Put a game that is strong enough to fill the hole back to the roots may be damaged. Note that the plant does not dry out during the firstseason, because they tend to magnolia early to spend on plants to get settled in. They have a tendency to pout, once they are dry.

Plant in a slightly raised bed to save him from having wet ground, with magnolias planted in places that have a problem during drainage. This is a problem in a country in North Auckland and heavy soil. If you intend to plant in the soil, consider planting them on a slope and condition of the soil by an oval holeimprove drainage.

Consider growing a magnolia beds for ornamental leaves and pods constantly shed. Transplant shock is to know what a magnolia suffer if they are transplanted during the season, which in turn leads to a severe shedding of leaves during the first year. light diet is important, and the reduction of fertilizer after three years.

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10 Tips Lawn Care You Need to Know - Read It

Below is a list of 10 lawn care tips that are important for anyone with a garden.

Lawn Maintenance Tip # 1 - If you live in or near some dusty roads, you can be sure lawn could suffer. You know that the rate of photosynthesis can be reduced significantly by a thin layer of dust? We recommend washing with detergent and water the lawn every few days or whenever it seems that it needs some cleaning. Do not use antibacterial soap dish, so as to leave the lawn with yellowstrips.

Lawn care tip # 2 - If you live in an area of wild fire, then try to use the grass that can help reduce fire risks. These lawn grass are available at your local store lawn care. A good combination of grass that would work is Canada bluegrass, wheat grass, sheep fescue and blue grass Gramma.

Lawn care tip # 3 - If there are parts of shady lawn, you can shade the grass grows the grass in sunny areas. This will help it look better. EDo not forget to prune some thick branches to let in more light.

Lawn Maintenance Tip # 4 - Earthworms are good for your lawn. Try to attract more earthworms to your garden with lawn organic fertilizer. This will attract earthworms like ants to honey.

Lawn Maintenance Tip # 5 - Try a thin layer of organic material around the lawn. mushroom compost is a good choice. This is the stuff that mushrooms grow mushrooms. It is composed of substances such as horse manure,straw, gypsum and limestone. It can be applied as compost regularly.

Lawn Maintenance Tip # 6 - mowing the lawn with a mulching mower can help you use less fertilizer. This machine allows the cut grass clippings to the soil where they decompose quickly. Typical herb contains 4% nitrogen, 1% phosphorus, potassium and 3%, which is similar to many of the organic fertilizers.

Lawn care tip # 7 - If after mowing the grass and the grass seems greener and the tanvotes, then the blades dull, probably because of a sharp knife cut the top, leaving a thin line on each sheet Tan. However, a dull blade tears the grass leaving a ragged edge and wounded a large area that turns brown. A few days after mowing grass with a dull blade, the lawn will be green brown.

Lawn Maintenance Tip # 8 - When enough moisture fields are not afraid to always get trampled. However, if the grass is not always enough water, not enoughthe strength to get out of this pavement. So make sure that every time water lawn, the moisture reaches 6-8 inches below the surface. This will contribute to strong and deep roots that can withstand periodic drought.

Lawn care tip # 9 - Do not water the lawn at night, because this is bad for your grass. You should be aware that water is brown patch and other fungal diseases stimulates. It is strongly recommended that watering the garden will be conducted between 5 and 8AM

Lawn care tip # 10 - Too much salt in fresh water can kill a lawn, so make sure your outside faucets are not connected to sewage treatment.

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When is the Best Time to Plant Roses?

Around springtime when the ground thaws out, it's a good time to begin the planting of your rose garden.

Roses have been a great and much loved aphrodisiac ever since the bible times, and they've actually existed for the past three thousand years. In spite of that they're still quite a mystery for many people, and most of all they smell rather nice.

Something that you're going to need to do is make sure that your rose bushes are planted in a spot which gets somewhere in the neighborhood of four to six hours of sunlight per day so that your rose bushes will remain healthy.

You'll want to do your best to not plant a large number of trees or any other plant next to your rose bush, simply because they have the capability of hindering your rose bush's growth. If your aim is to plant a new rosebush, then make sure that you take out at least one and a half cubic feet of the old soil, and then you will need to use some fresh soil to replace that, which you can likely buy from your local plant nursery. When you're placing the rose within the garden you need to think about the habits of the rose.

Take the following into account, pace climbers and ramblers near fences, or trellises, or even near arches and pergolas. This is an area which will allow them to grow freely, and it will give them the chance to create beautiful blooms.

You will also find that roses can look exquisite within garden beds amongst perennials. If you want to do something really great then you can plant miniature roses on the edges in the shadows of larger roses.

Shrub roses are great too when planted by themselves, and you could even plant several to create a hedge. Another use that people often take advantage of them for is to hide parts of the garden that are less than aesthetically pleasing.

Try digging a hole that's big enough for the roots, and make sure that the hole is loose at the bottom. Adding bone meal to the hole will also help the roots to grow.

Your rose bush needs to be put in the hole, and then fill the hole with soil making sure that the roots are adequately covered. Before you actually finish covering make sure that you give the rose some water, and then make a mound of soil approximately six inches in height. This will keep your stems from drying till the plant takes root.

You need to be quite careful with the depth that you plant your roses at. The actual depth is different for different areas.

If you're in an area that's a bit colder, then you'll want to try and plant your roses a little deeper, and even talk to those who have planted roses near you. If you've purchased potted roses, the put them in about an inch below the level that they were in the pot.

So what is the best time to plant a rose? Well it actually depends on the winter temperature. If temperatures never drop below negative ten degrees Fahrenheit then you could try planting in either spring or fall without any issue. If the temperature in your area tends to drop below that threshold then you should plant in the springtime. Always make sure that you plant your roses in a dormant state if you buy them bore root, however container plants are able to be planted at any time.

The rose spacing is something that will be determined by the temperature as well. If you're in a place in which the winter is particularly bad and your rose plants don't grow quite as large, then you might want to space hybrid tea roses about 1 ½ to 3 feet apart. Those roses that tend to grow large, will probably need three or even five feet of space in between. Then there are the climbers which require even more, which is to say as much as eight to ten feet.

If the temperature in wintertime happens to be lower than ten degrees Fahrenheit, then you will find that your roses will thrive if you take care of them in the right manner. As the gardener you need to be ready for the cold even while it's nice and warm outside.

If the climate is colder, then roses will be last fertilized around August fifteenth to stop new canes from forming. The reason is that any new canes at this point will not survive during the cold of winter.

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What Are Lawn Mushrooms?

Do you see mushrooms appearing in the center of your beautiful green lawn? Lawns that are healthy and green will look unsightly with those mushrooms appearing in their midst. Lawn mushrooms are products of grass fungi that infested your lawn. They are not only unattractive but some grass fungi can actually kill your grass.

Thus when you see mushrooms and some yellowing in your grass, you have to be alarmed.

Lawn mushrooms feed on old mulch, animal waste and rotting tree stumps. If these particles are present in your lawn, you will surely see mushrooms appearing all the time.

When you see mushroom, it is an indication that grass fungi is present in and around the lawn.

You have to eradicate the grass fungi and what is causing the lawn mushroom to appear. Clean up the lawn by taking away decaying matters in your lawn.

While you may get rid of the mushrooms when they appear, you have to ensure that you will take away from your lawn the decaying matters that the mushroom thrived on.

You may also need to do aeration and dethatching to ensure that there are no more alien particles within the lawn that will cause problems later on.

Lawn mushrooms can spread spores in other areas of your lawn. Thus, even if you get rid of the lawn mushroom that appeared, you will again see mushroom coming out in other areas.

The important thing to do is perform regular maintenance including aeration which helps strengthen the grass roots and keep it absorbing nutrients and water.

You may also need to perform dethatching because those webby, spongy materials will invite grass fungus that may cause not just the springing of lawn mushrooms but may even kill the grass in your lawn.

When you take away lawn mushrooms put them in a plastic bag to ensure that spores will not spread any further.

This is the main reason why in some lawns, even if they are able to get rid of lawn mushrooms, later on some new once keep springing.

If you continuously get lawn mushroom problems even if you have cleaned up your lawn, took away decaying matters, placed the lawn mushrooms you gotten rid of in a plastic bag and disposed of away from the lawn, then may be its time to use fungicides.

You are continuously having lawn mushroom problems because there are grass fungi thriving in your lawn. Use a fungicide to your lawn and take off the dead grass fungi. Keep them at bay by gathering up the mushrooms and other fungi matters and disposing it off away from your lawn.

Finally, regular maintenance and overseeding your lawn will help you keep your healthy and dense grass growing. Diseases and pests may find it hard to conquer your lawn if you are careful with it.

Finally, mowing regularly, aeration and dethatching all contribute to a healthy turf. Lawn mushroom and other grass fungi may not find a place within your dense and beautiful lawn. Regular maintenance is always necessary.

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Crassula Tetragona or Bonsai Pine: Succulent Plants for Dry Landscapes or Houseplants

Crassula tetragona are drought tolerant plants look a little like pine branches with the needles sticking out the sides, or a green bottle brush. They are often used in bonsai pots to look like pine trees. In the ground, they grow up to 4 feet tall. They will branch at the tips and can be used as a low, informal hedge. Their leaves, which look like fat pine needles are about an inch long. Their color can vary from green to deep, bluish green. They can take full sun to light shade, love heat and are easy to root and grow.

Like other Crassula, these grow well in dry gardens with other succulent and cacti. As houseplants, give them up to 6 hours a day of sun. They should also do well with bright, indirect light. These perennial plants are drought tolerant and only need water once a month or so. In summer they get wide, flat sprays of flowers that make me think of Queen Anne's Lace. Blooms are produced on the tips of their branches. Flower color can vary from white to yellow. Visit www.theGardenPages.com to see photos. Crassula are hardy to 40 degrees. In my garden they have survived light dustings of frost. But all that water stored in their leaves and branches will freeze if they are exposed to cold temperatures for very long.

Crassula are easily propagated by cuttings so you don't have to spend a lot of money to have a lot of plants. These plants branch at the tips and can get a little top heavy. Trim the tops to create more succulents for your landscape. If you plant the cutting straight up, it will continue to grow that way. If you place a cutting on its side, the cutting will develop roots along the branch and form several plants. In my yard, the dog sometimes knocks off a few branches here and there. Those branches take root with no help from me, thank you. So, I'm slowly getting bigger groups of Crassula growing around the yard with no time or effort from me, cool deal.

Xeriscaping with drought tolerant cactus and succulent plants has become popular out here in the arid southwest. My crassula are growing in both full sun and shade, in heavy alkaline, clay soil. They are poking up around my cactus and their fluffy branches provide a nice contrast to the flat green cactus pads. They get watered once a month (if I remember ). They’re pretty, carefree and always look green when everything else has fried. If you think you have a brown thumb, this is the plant for you!

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How The Chronograph Works

A chronograph is an electronic instrument that has one or more hands that can be stopped on command for the explicit purpose of measuring elapsed time. You may have never heard of a chronograph, but you certainly know what stopwatches are. They are one in the same. Today they come in two basic forms, mechanical and digital.

Mechanical chronograph, just like with wristwatches, operate on a spring mechanism and must be manually wound. The controls usually consist of two or three pushbuttons. Pressing the buttons starts and stops the time tracking mechanism, displayed by second and minute hands, which can be reset to a starting position by pushing an additional button.

For most purposes, mechanical chronographs are accurate enough, though anyone desiring a high degree of accuracy will use a digital stopwatch. An example of someone that would need the digital version would be a track and field athlete or any number of other athletic endeavors where time is measured by the split second. These precision timepieces have the capability of displaying tenths, hundredths, even thousandths of seconds, and using the same extremely accurate and reliable oscillator found in quartz watches. Digital chronographs are without a doubt the most popular form of the chronograph today. As technology has improved in, so to has the accuracy of the timepiece.

The first chronograph like instrument was developed in 1720 by an Englishman named Graham, who is today referred to as 'the Father of the Chronograph'. He basically and then it a clock that could be quickly started and stopped and was accurate to within 1/16 of a second. Although by today's standards that is horribly inaccurate, it was a fantastic achievement at that time.

The first actual chronograph was made about a century later by a Frenchman named Rieussec. His clock had dots on it to measure the elapsed time, and was the first to bear the name 'chronograph'. His invention used a pen to mark onto the dial itself an arc whose length could be used to measure how long the mechanism had operated for. It was a very intricate mechanism that proved to be quite accurate and reliable.

The Greek roots of the word 'chronograph' suggest that it actually means 'time writing', and since Rieussec's invention was the only one to involve writing it is the only real chronograph. Chronographs today are all called stopwatches because I believe if you were to ask anyone in about a chronograph, they would have no idea what you're talking about. Although it is technically a misnomer, many people still refer to stopwatches as chronographs, and the names are for nearly all intents and purposes interchangeable.

It is commonplace now to see wristwatches that have a chronograph built right into the face of it. Analog wristwatches that have a built in mechanical stopwatch are simply referred to as chronographs, and usually carry a heftier price tag due to their complexity. They are however quite reliable and come in handy if you have a need for such a thing.

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Pondless Waterfall - No Filter Needed

No filter is needed in a pondless waterfall? That is correct - a properly designed pondless waterfall needs no filter. It also does not need a centipede module, snorkel vault, or pump housing. The liner industry added all of these unnecessary contraptions to their kits to drive up their profit margins.

I have built hundreds of pondless waterfalls over the years, starting with my first one in 1984 in Fallbrook, California. So, regarding this subject, "A man with experience is not at the mercy of a man with an argument."

1. Value: Pondless waterfalls constructed with a liner cannot be warranted against holes caused by mice, rats, ground squirrels, gophers, chipmunks, tree roots, sharp objects, etc. However, pondless waterfalls that are constructed with concrete and rebar can be warranted for life. Because of this fact, a professionally constructed pondless waterfall will actually add equity to a home. We have compared the cost of materials and labor (hiring a concrete contractor and rebar fabricator) of both methods of construction and discovered that concrete and rebar pondless waterfalls cost the same or less than liner kits cost, uninstalled still in the box)!

2. Filter: Advocates of pondless waterfalls require you to install a "bio-falls" at the top of the falls for a filter. This is a waste of the customer's money because it is not needed. Note: this plastic molded box is cheap to produce and returns exorbitant profits, plus it tacks on additional maintenance costs to the client, requiring periodic cleaning.

3. Pump: For several years the promoters of pondless waterfall liners recommended placing a sump pump in the bottom of the collection basin, and then fill it with gravel. I talked to a woman recently who said, when she turned on the sump pump, before the pumped water would return to the basin, the pump was sucking air (the basin was empty). She did not know where the pump was and the installer would not return her calls. A friend of hers found the pump at the bottom of the basin buried in gravel. And, the pump was all plugged up with debris. There is no telling how many thousands of pondless waterfall customers have this very same problem.

4. Needless extras: The pondless waterfall liner guys came up with the brilliant idea of producing a pump chamber with holes in the bottom, or a centipede or snorkel vault. These are all fancy terms for worthless devices for which they can charge more money. All these contraptions do is keep the gravel away from the pump.

5. Correcting two major design flaws: Our pondless waterfalls are designed with a catch basin. It not only does not contain any gravel at all, but it does not utilize an inefficient, high-maintenance, energy-sucking sump pump that only has a one or two-year warranty. Our pondless waterfall basins (constructed of concrete) contain two 8" anti-vortex suction drains, which feed an above-ground, high-efficiency centrifugal pump which is warranted for three years. The pump uses up to 60 percent less energy, is easy to hide, silent and maintenance free. It utilizes a leaf basket with a "twist and lift" cover for removing debris.

The basin is covered with five or six galvanized grates that are covered with rocks to hide it. The grating holes only allow debris small enough to be drawn through openings in the suction drains where it can be collected in the pump basket for easy removal, thus keeping the basin free from collecting debris. There is no need to ever get into the basin. There is a fail-safe Aquafill water leveler to keep the basin full so you never need to worry about it running dry and burning up the pump. Not to mention that the total volume of the basin is available for water, unlike the liner pondless waterfall that wastes 80 percent of its capacity with gravel. Over several months the gravel plugs up with rotting debris, creating a putrid, slimy, filthy job for the pondless waterfall owner.

6. Last, but by no means least: The reason concrete pondless waterfalls do not need filters is because, unlike the water that slowly moves through the gravel in the basin of a liner pondless waterfall (where the water becomes stagnant from its inability to move freely), concrete pondless waterfalls have an open chamber in the basin, allowing the rapid and free flow of water. This rapid circulation assures that mosquito larvae cannot survive. Nor can algae survive since the basin is covered. This keeps out the sunlight, cools off the water and keeps it clear.

Since a pondless waterfall does not have a pond, you are not dealing with fish food, fish waste, and large quantities of decaying debris. Consequently, there is no need for a filter in a properly designed concrete pondless waterfall. Hundreds of pondless waterfalls since 1984 will attest to that fact.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pond cure. DH

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How To Maintain a Healthy Fish Pond by Monitoring the Pond Water Quality

The quality of your pond water will determine the health of your fish, plants and overall health of your pond. Fish typically become ill when the water quality is not correct; for example a higher than normal ammonia level; nitrite level; a pH reading that is out of the normal range will stress your fish thus making them much more susceptible to disease. With fish illness, prevention is much easier than treatment. It is well worth your effort to try and maintain a healthy environment for your fish. As fish live in a relatively small environment any disease soon gets passed around to some or even all of the other fish. A common mistake is to think that clear water is healthy water and to try purely to achieve this goal.

pH

The pH of the water is a measurement of acidity. It has a range from 0 to 14. If the pH is below 7 it is acidic, above 7 it is alkaline and equal to 7 it is neutral. A pond's pH will change naturally from time to time due to filter performance, KH (buffering) and levels of carbon dioxide in the water. The carbon dioxide levels come from fish metabolism, plant respiration, pollution and organic acids in the water and all lower the pH level of the pond water. Impurities in tap water also lower the pH level and therefore it is advisable not to use tap water if possible. Slight variations in the pH level are quite common and will not harm your fish but try to stick with a pH level between 6.8 to 9.0, these levels are ideal for goldfish and koi.

Ammonia

Ammonia is converted into Nitrite by Nitrosomonas (Nitrosomonas is a genus of ammonia-oxidizing proteobacteria ) Nitrite is converted into Nitrate (plant food) by Nitrobacter (Nitrobacter is a bacteria that is an important part of the nitrogen cycle ). Nitrites are highly toxic to fish and cause breathing difficulties. Nitrites are only controlled by water changes and correct filtration. Algae in the water consume nitrates as well as plants. To encourage your plants to send out roots and consume waterborne nitrates and phosphates limit the amount of soil you use for your potted plants or even use a soil less media. The amount of food you give you fish has a big influence on the amount of nitrates present. Only feed enough food that is eaten within a couple of minutes. The amount of fish you have in the pond is also a consideration, never overstock your pond as this increases nitrates and the possibility of ill health to your fish.

Alkalinity

Alkalinity is the ability of water to resist (buffer) changes in pH. This is often referred to as KH buffering. Alkalinity (also known as Carbonate Hardness or KH) is the measure of carbonate and bicarbonate ion concentrations. An alkalinity value of 100 to 300 ppm ( parts per million ) is good. At these levels of Alkalinity the pond water will provide greater buffering and produce a more stable pH. If alkalinity is less than 50 ppm then wide pH swings are common and a major filter problem is imminent.

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Planting Trees - How Do We Get That New Tree From the Nursery to Grow in the Garden?

You've chosen the perfect tree for that perfect spot in your garden. It has made the journey from being on display at the nursery all the way to your home, whether you brought it or you've had it delivered. Now it's time to plant.

The hole that you dig should be only as deep as the root ball of the tree. If you dig it too deep you may end up burying the trunk flare or preventing good gas exchange for the root system. If it is not deep enough, though, the tree will struggle to gets its roots to a good depth.

Your hole should be three times the width of the root ball. The soil that you are digging into is likely to be compacted and difficult for a new tree's roots to penetrate. So make your hole wide so that roots can grow outward immediately. Failure in newly planted trees is often due to small planting holes that leave a tree no chance to expand its root system.

A clever way to promote root health in newly planted trees is to install rootwells at the edge of the planting pit. Three of them is usually enough for a small caliper tree. They allow irrigation to go deep enough to water the root system, allow critical gas exchange, and encourage diving roots for a healthier root system. Your arborist can show you these devices and easily guide you through installing them. Don't have an arborist? Call one. They are always more than happy to offer advice and guidance.

As you maneuver the tree into its hole, be careful not to lift it by its trunk. This could severely damage it, and in some cases kill it. It should be moved by lifting the root ball or container. When it is in the hole, position it so that the trunk is upright and the trunk flare is at or slightly above grade. Cut away the container or wrap and remove any wires or twine binding the root ball. Burlap can be laid down on the bottom of the hole.

Gently spread the roots out into the hole. You may prune some of the roots if they appear to have a circling pattern. Remember that you want the roots to grow outward and not back toward the trunk.

Gently begin to fill the hole with soil. Add a few inches and compact as you go with your feet, a tamper, or water to remove air pockets. Soil amenities can be mixed in with your fill, but you should not add fertilizer. It is good to add water as you go to promote settling and compacting.

When the hole is filled to grade, put a mulch layer on top. Two to four inches of mulch is ideal. More than four inches is not advisable, as it can cause problems such as poor gas exchange and root burning. Be careful not to mound mulch at the trunk flare. Mulch is very beneficial to the root system but can be harmful to the trunk, causing bark decay and inviting fungus and pests.

Your new tree will require lots of water. A slow soak that saturates the full depth of the root system is required to promote good root depth. Your lawn irrigation system will not achieve this. A soaker hose or irrigation bag is advisable. This should be done at least once a week in the first season. If you have installed rootwells, you will be much more likely to irrigate to the proper depth.

We perform all of our tree care in the Northern Virginia area which has a reasonably temperate climate, but the guidelines above can be followed in any climate across the country. Of course, it's always best to check with a tree service professional before taking on a project your not certain of.

Enjoy you new tree as you watch it grow!

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Bald Cypress Tree

Bald cypress is a deciduous tree that grows along creeks, rivers, swamps and streams, and basically anywhere with slow moving water. It is a long lived tree, with a life span of up to six hundred years. It is quite a legendary tree, known for its distinctive moss-covered crown, buttressed trunk and its 'knees'.

Appearance

The Bald cypress is quite a large tree, capable of reaching heights of up to one hundred and fifty meters. The trunk is generally buttressed and fluted near the base, especially in wetter areas. The tree has a pyramid-shaped crown during its younger years and as the tree grows older, it becomes flat-topped. While it grows in water, the shallow roots tend to rise up above the soil to form cone-shaped pneumatophores, called its 'knees'.

It has flat, needle-like leaves that are a light yellowish green. The fruits produced are round cones that can be up to one inch in diameter. They are green, leathery and wrinkled. When fully mature, the cone becomes woody and it finally disintegrates when the scales on it fit closely together.

Uses

The base of the trunk of this tree has a unique shape, and this has led to artists creating clocks, wall décor and other furniture by using the tree's cross-sectioned roots. This tree is particularly popular in landscaping due to its ornamental beauty. The old-growth heartwood it supplies is in high demand by the timber industry because it is very strong and does not rot.

It is also resistant to water, and is called 'wood eternal' and is very valuable because of this. If you go to swamps in New England or even New Jersey you can see prehistoric trees of this kind that has wood that can still be used. This wood, which will be mineralized to some degree, is mined from these swamps and then used for wood carvings, which is one of its specialty uses.

This tree is known for having a particularly high merchantable yield, and the swamps in which it grows happen to be some of the most productive ecosystems in the world.

However, lumber use has declined because it is a slow-growing tree, it is harvested from wetlands, and the population of mature trees is much smaller than in the past.

Popularity

The Bald cypress is a very popular ornamental tree, grown for its light, feathery foliage and orange-brown fall colour. In cultivation it thrives on a wide range of soils including well-drained sites where it would not grow naturally due to the inability of the young seedlings to compete with other vegetation.

However, these trees do need a rather continental climate having hot summers for them to grow well. It can still grow healthily in areas that have cool summers and oceanic climates, but its growth will be much slower, and cones will not be produced.

The Bald cypress was named the official tree of the state of Louisiana back in 1963, in representation of the southern swamps. You can also find these trees in the coastal plains of the Atlantic Ocean, the Gulf and in the Mississippi River Valley.

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Preventing Weeds Naturally - Three Common Practices You Ought to Avoid

The phrase "preventing weeds naturally" gets quite a few searches on the web every single day. Exactly why are people searching about how to prevent weeds naturally?

Every day, people use the internet to obtain information. When we're looking for information, our motivations are varied. Virtually all motivations can be separated into one of two groups; pleasure seeking or pain avoidance. Pleasure seeking is positive, when we're searching for something we want. Pain avoidance is negative, when we're looking to avoid something we don't want.

When we're trying to prevent weeds naturally, we have both positive and negative motivations. In this article, I'm taking aim only at the negative "pain avoidance" side, looking at the three mistakes that are most important to avoid when trying to implement a system of organic weed control.

You ought to know that preventing weeds naturally relies on keeping your good plants healthy enough to choke out new weeds from sprouting. It's also important to starve weed seedlings from getting what they need to thrive.

O.K. Exactly what do we have to avoid, and why?

As soon as you embark upon natural weed prevention, then clearly you have to begin treating your plants and garden differently.

Here are the 3 things you need to avoid:

To begin with, don't water garden or landscaped beds with a sprinkler system. The main reasoning for this is that sprinklers also water weeds, in addition to your good garden plants.

What is the alternative? Use a drip irrigation system, or if you hand water, take care to only water your garden plants and not water bare soil or areas where weeds may come up.

Second, plant for full soil coverage. Why is that? When you plant large stands of plants and they cover the ground completely, weed seedlings find it hard to get established, because your good plants' roots are taking up the water and nutrients available, and also their foliage is choking out new weeds from sprouting.

How can we tell what's enough or too much? You should aim for complete soil coverage. This works best when you plant multiple plants of the same variety, that have the same needs. You can also use groundcovering plants to get the same effect.

Lastly and most importantly, you should use a thick layer of mulch. This is because wood chip mulch can stop weed seedlings from even germinating. They stop seeds from getting the light and warm temperatures they need to sprout.

So how do you know if you've got enough mulch? You should have a minimum of three inches of wood chip mulch on your garden beds for good organic weed prevention.

Eliminate the weeds by avoiding these 3 potential issues. While it can be hard to avoid using nasty chemicals in your garden, prevention is key, and with these three tips you'll be ready for success.

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How to Install a Stone, Paver Or Brick Garden Path Or Patio

Pavers, brick, and stone can be dry-laid over a bed of sand by a homeowner without difficulty. The installation process is fairly simple and is forgiving. In areas where no frost heave occurs, you can lay large stones directly over compact soil if need be. Then sweep sand between the stone to help keep them from shifting.

Here we offer a basic step-by-step way to install stones, pavers, and bricks to make a walkway, patio, or garden path. I will refer to all concrete pavers, bricks or stone as simply- stone, to save space.

The simplest form of stone paving is laying flat stones directly on the ground. Loosen the dirt so each stone sits firmly and is supported evenly underneath. Grass or ground cover grows between the stones and you mow right over them. This method is appropriate for rustic, natural settings. To help drainage, spread a half-inch layer of sand over the compacted dirt before laying the stone.

For a formal look or design and to get better drainage, lay stone in compacted sand over crushed stone. This requires more work, but you'll get a flatter, more even paving with joints of sand between the stones instead of vegetation. The sand compensates for irregularities in the ground. Once the bed is in place, laying the stones is a lot like doing a puzzle. Try different stone combinations until you get the smallest gap between joints. If using pavers or bricks, the pattern will have been pre-determined.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS YOU MAY REQUIRE - Stones, pavers, or bricks, tamper, gloves, landscape fabric, safety goggles, tape measure, rubber mallet, string, plywood, wood stakes, 48-inch level, small sledgehammer, pencil, framing square, brick hammer, garden hose, pitching chisel, spade, broom, sand, gravel, and kneepads.

BASIC INSTRUCTIONS: The most difficult step in laying stone is preparing the bed. Normally a two-inch bed of sand is enough if your stones are the same thickness. If the thickness varies, you may need a deeper sand bed. To keep weeds down, use landscape fabric. If your soil does not drain well, consider a four-inch bed of gravel under the sand. Use landscape fabric between gravel and sand when using this method. If your soil drains poorly and you are in a cold climate, consider an even thicker gravel base.

When ordering materials, have your measurements with you so the dealer can help figure your needs. If you are NOT making your own stone, brick or pavers with concrete molds, purchase 5-10 percent over what you need to allow for breakage, cutting mistakes, and future repairs.

LAYING STONE IN PACKED SAND:

1. Lay out Your Area- Set stakes to mark the proposed edge of the patio or walk. Mark the outside corners a bit beyond the proposed edge. Use a framing square to confirm that the corners form right angles. For free-form shapes, lay out the curves using garden hose. Now go around the outline, sinking a spade into the earth to score the perimeter. Once you've scored the ground, remove the stakes, string, or hose.

2. Excavate Soil- Set your stones about 1 inch above the ground. To do this, excavate to a depth that equals: the thickness of your stone minus 1 inch. Then figure 2 inches for the sand bed, plus 4 inches for a gravel base if one is needed. Remove all grass, roots and large rocks from the area to be finished. Now place the gravel if using any. Tamp it down with a hand or mechanical tamper.

3. Install a Weed Barrier- Install a layer of landscape fabric on the excavation or on top of the gravel if used. Overlap by 4 to 6 inches. Landscape fabric is designed to prevent weeds while still allowing water to drain through.

4. Spread and Screed the Sand- Top the landscape fabric with about 2 inches of regular construction sand. Tamp it down, and use a straight length of 2x4 to screed the sand level.

5. Install the Stones- Starting in one corner, place the stones on the sand and tamp them into place using a rubber mallet. Make sure that they are solidly bedded, level, and do not wobble. If necessary, dig out sand to make the bedding more stable. Arrange the straight edges toward the outside perimeter and fit any irregular edges together. Leave a half-inch space between the stones. If using pavers or bricks, butt them against each other, with a quarter to a half-inch space between them. If you made your own pavers or bricks with concrete molds to save money, the angle of the sides needed to enable demolding will automatically give you the spacing when butted tightly against each other.

TIP: If you have to kneel on the sand to lay stone, use a piece of plywood to keep from creating depressions. After you have laid a few stones, kneel on the stone instead. Use a 4-foot-long level to maintain the paving level.

6. Cut and Shape the Stones- Some stones may need to be trimmed for a better fit. First, hold the stone to be cut over those in place and mark the cutting line with a pencil or crayon. For small cuts, trim using a brick hammer. For large cuts, score the marked line with a pitching chisel and hammer. Gently tap off the unwanted piece using the hammer. With pavers or brick you may not need to trim anything if you've pre-planned the dimensions of your project.

7. Fill the Joints with Sand- When all stones are in place, sweep the joints full of sand. Wet the surface with a fine mist from your hose to compact the sand, then sweep more sand into the joints until they are full. Fill the joints again in a few days when the sand settles.

Now stand back and admire your work!

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Everything You Ever Wanted To Know About Plumbers

A plumber is one whose job is to ensure that you are not standing in knee-deep water after every trip to the bathroom or every washing day, or every hour of dish washing. In a building, there are many systems in place and the system of drainage, drinking water, pipe work for heating and cooling systems, and other water pipes - and these all come under the domain of the plumber.

For effective execution of all work under the banner of plumbing, a plumber has to hold a valid license. He must have a thorough knowledge of all the practical and theoretical aspects of the job. A good grasp of math, science and English helps. This job requires one to be ready to work whenever called, in cramped, often dirty places. Duct fixing, mechanical services, gas fitting, sanitary problems, water supply, roofing and draining are some of the main areas of expertise. To get a license, one has to have the requisite number of years in practical experience and pay the fees and the necessary insurance cover. References are needed from previous and current employers as well as the plumber under whom apprenticeship was completed.

The plumbing code gives a broad spectrum idea of the best and most modern methods of carrying out plumbing operations. Licenses ensure that only capable individuals are given the responsibility. Inspection and permits ensure that work is completed as per regulations.

In a house, plumbing constitutes almost 15% of the value of the house. It has to an efficient system. Drains, toilets, tubes, floor drains, fittings, faucets, compression faucets, kitchen sinks, lavatory bowls and bathtubs, water closets, tanks, shower equipment, water heaters, and pipes all come within the ambit of a plumber's job.

An efficient plumbing system in your home ensures good health for everyone and goes a long way in protecting the environment. A knowledgeable plumber makes sure the plumbing is as efficient as can be.

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How To Use Hedge Trimmers

Safety Gear
Before attempting to use any powered equipment, it is important to first be dressed for it. When using hedge trimmers, heavy work gloves should be worn. This will not only protect the hands from bug bites, scrapes and scratches, it will also likely prevent blisters from forming on the hands. Other items that should be worn include safety goggles or glasses and steel-toed shoes. Wear long sleeves and long pants as well.

Purpose
Before using the hedge trimmers, the user should size up the bush and decide on a plan of action. Predetermine the amount of excess growth that should be taken off the top and sides of the plants. This will likely prevent over-pruning and limb damage.

Surroundings
Before getting started, be sure that the hedges in question are the property of the person doing the trimming. If not, permission should be given. As with a haircut, trimming bushes cannot be undone. The length can only grow back with time. If the hedge trimmer is an electric model, find a sturdy extension cord with no breaks or cracks in it. Use an electrical outlet compatible with the voltage required for the equipment. Canvas the area for puddles of water and do not attempt to use electrical components in the rain or snow.

Preparation
To start the project, put on all safety gear. Clear the area of any children and pets. Look over the bush and make sure there are no birds or wildlife in it. If there are, wait until they leave before proceeding with the project. If the bushes are extremely overgrown and contain multiple types of plants and vines, separate out and remove the vines before continuing. Watching out for thorns, untangle the vines and use hand pruners to cut the vines as close to their roots as possible. They can be pulled out in pieces when care is taken not to damage the bush. If possible, the bottom of the vines should be removed by their roots to avoid regrowth. Use heavy pruners to remove any young trees growing through the bushes. Survey the bush from all directions and create a plan. Plug in or fuel up the hedge trimmers before beginning the project.

Trimming
Start on one end of the hedges and, using a sweeping motion, begin trimming. Keep the strokes even in depth and length so that the bush will be uniform when it is finished. Do not go deeper than outskirts of the bushes allow, as the caliper of the branches and twigs get thicker the closer they are to the base.

Aftermath
Once the project is complete, clean up all debris and dispose of it properly. Recycle or compost any material, rather than putting it in the trash. Disconnect any electrical components. Wipe down the equipment and remove any twigs or pieces of debris from it. Do not leave the hedge trimmers outside in the weather.

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Factors to Consider When Buying Yard Machine Tillers

If you are looking for yard machine tillers to help you with your needs in garden care, you have to remember to choose wisely. This is because it is among the most expensive pieces of gardening equipment available on the market. As such, you need to ask some questions to determine if the tiller you are getting is best for your garden.

Size

In order to determine the tiller size you need, you have to consider the land area you need to work with as well as the hardness or softness of your soil. There are small tillers available called power cultivators. Typically, these only have just 1-2 blades on them. The larger tillers contain 4 or more blades.

For soft soil, small tillers are used. Simultaneously, large tillers are best for rocky and hard ground.

Blade Type

Another important thing in yard machine tillers is the tiller blades or tines. These items are used to cultivate soil. As such, there are 3 types of tines that are available:

Bolo - used for deep tilling.
Slasher - used to work with plants that have roots in the ground as well as for heavy vegetation
Pick and Chisel - used for hard ground that contains rocks.

You also have to consider if you are getting the front or rear tined tiller. The front tined tiller is lightest in terms of weight. Usually, they are between 6-9 inches wide and are electric powered. These are good to use for soil that has been cultivated before. On the other hand, the rear tined tillers are large. These yard machine tillers have motors that are powered by gas. As a result, they are strong enough to work through a portion of soil that has never been touched. Rear tined tillers are better to control as opposed to the first option.

Price

Lastly, you should think about how much you are willing to spend on these yard machine tillers. Although they are pricey, there are some that you can find cheap. Visit my website to find out where.

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How To Clean Up An Overgrown Yard

Preparation
Pick up any trash or small, hard objects, such as pine cones, from the yard. Put them in the trash can or compost pile. Move any furniture or vehicles out of the way. Send any children or pets inside for their own protection. Don safety glasses, long pants, a long-sleeved shirt, work gloves and steel-toed shoes. Wear a cap or 'do-rag for extra head protection.

Lawn
The first item to be maintained should be the grass. Use a string trimmer to take down any weeds on the edge of the lawn or up against the house or other structures. This includes the mailbox, shed, garage and other stationary objects. Use a lawnmower to cut the grass. Return items to their rightful place as needed when finished. Use an edger to create a definitive line around the perimeter of the yard at sidewalks and driveways for a more finished and professional look.

Hedges
Use a powered hedge trimmer to cut back any overgrown bushes. Take a preliminary survey of all hedges before starting to estimate which ones need the most attention and try to make the height and shape uniform when possible. Pull out from the roots any weeds that are growing underneath the bushes.

Trees
Use a chainsaw to remove any dangling tree branches. Cut back limbs that offer easy access for squirrels to rooftops. Any low branches that pose a threat to people walking into them in the yard should be removed. This wood can be used for a variety of household purposes, such as firewood or mulch.

Debris
Pick up any large debris from the yard as needed. Do not leave piles on the lawn or in plant beds. Use a leaf blower to clean up any excess grass or leaves as needed. Debris that is too heavy for the leaf blower can be picked up with gloved hands and put into bags for pickup or into a compost pile. Put away any tools and equipment used. Clean up any messes made and be sure the tools are wiped down to preserve them for future use.

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Different Types of Lawn Mowers

Let us first know what a mower is? A mower is one kind of machine which is commonly used to cut the crops or plants. They can be big which are used in the agriculture land or they can be small which are used for the gardens. The mower which is used for the garden purpose is called the lawn mower. It is sometimes also called the ground mower. It really eases out the effort and we have to apply very less effort to cut the grasses. This makes the mowers a very handy machine for the gardens.

There are many types of mowers. Some of them are as follows:

1. Sickle Mower
The sickle mower is also called the reciprocating mowers. Some people also call it the finger-bar mowers. If you will see the channel of the bar then you will find out that there is a sickle with very sharp edges. You can drive the sickle bar back and forth by the side of the channel. All the grasses as well as the plants are cut in between the three edges of the sickle. You will find that you have to just provide a little bit of effort and all the grass as well as the small plants will be cut from their roots within few seconds. This is the oldest type of mowers and the principle used in it is quite often used even today.

2. Rotary Mower
This is yet another kind of mowers. It is also called a drum mower. It is used to cut the crops. The sharp edges just take the crops out of the soil and all of them are then picked up by the farmers. There are some of the self power mowers of this type which are used to cut the grasses of the garden.

3. Reel Mower
These types of mowers are used for cutting tall grasses. The grass which is cut can be collected in the collection bin.

4. Flail Mower
It has number of small blades at the end of the chain which is attached to the horizontal axis. They are certainly quite useful. It can be used for trimming the side of the hedges. The axe like head strikes the grasses at very high speed and they are cut in one round only.

These are some of the mowers for you. They are quite good for your garden as a lawn mower.

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Using Tarps in the Garden

There are many different uses for tarps in your garden, just as there are many different types of tarps used. For general covering of delicate flowers and plants, to covering grills, toys, playgrounds, and just about anything else that may need protection from the sun or weather. There are many different sizes to choose from, 4X6 models are ideal for quick patches on awnings or sheds. Because of their small size, they are also ideal for raking leaves onto and lifting into the garbage or composting.

Larger sizes are widely available as well and some companies will sell sizes up to 24'X30' for a wide range of applications. They can be used to cover a leaking shed or green house, as a replacement awning. They are often used to cover tractors and other large farm equipment. A really talented person with the right know how could possibly even create a variety of different shelters.

Cloth tarps are often used in the garden as a lining for bedding flowers and plants. Its porous nature allows water and nutrients to get to the roots, but acts as a barrier against weeds and other invaders. Because it is made from natural fibers, when it breaks down over time it will dissolve, sometimes providing the roots with even more nutrients, and not harming the soil.

Water proof tarps have a variety of different uses, the most common and popular use being to cover and protect out door grills, patio furniture, and other back yard and garden items. They are also used to protect delicate plants from frost, by not only repelling moisture, but also keeping them nice and warm during those early spring nights. They solve an assortment of other problems as well. The can be used to make an emergency shelter, for people, livestock, and pets. These are ideal ways of quickly fixing a leaking roof, on one of the buildings or vehicles, including Recreational Vehicles. It can keep rain from becoming a problem when storing boats, and smaller craft.

Another way that a waterproof tarp can be used for is to keep water in. Many people use these tarps to line water decorations, pools, and natural ponds. The spot is excavated, line with either one or many tarps, sealed together if needed and the edges buried. Once the dirt has been packed down fill with water. If you plan to do this on your own, make sure you leave enough extra tarp for expansion as the water fills up.

Mesh tarps can be used as a barrier against flying insects like mosquitoes gnats and other annoyances. You use one to replace a green house window in the summer, allowing the sun and fresh air to circulate through and keep harmful bugs away. It also keeps helpful insects in your green house, like lady bugs.

There are many more tips and ideas on the uses of a tarp in your garden found online. You can find many companies that sell not only a wide range of styles, sizes, and models, but an assortment of colors, including camouflage. You can find out what their prices are and have them shipped directly to you. One tarp may cost $10, but if you buy ten or more, the price may drop to $5 each instead.

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Benefits of Artificial Grass Lawns

Wouldn't it be wonderful to have a perfect lawn, year-round, without ever having to do anything? It can be done, if you're open to considering going with artificial grass. The way artificial grass is manufactured these days, it will always look as good as a brand-new natural turf. And, it will always look properly cared for, and completely healthy without any damaged areas.

You don't even have to pay attention to where you would place the trees, for fear that they might cause too much shade and affects your grass. The truth is, synthetic grass lawns have many benefits over conventional grass, and it doesn't have any needs whatsoever.

In order to have great grass with natural methods, it requires extensive work. Otherwise, you are left with the option to use chemicals. Unfortunately or fortunately, whichever way you would like to look at it, more and more cities and states are prohibiting the use of chemicals in order to benefit the environment.

With that said, natural grass requires a lot of work from the homeowner, or a lot of money to pay the landscaper to perform the work for you.

Moreover, homeowners are always having to deal with various problems with their lawns. For example, the white grubs of the Japanese beetles are very damaging to the grass. They rob the roots of the grass of their nutrients, resulting in dead patches of sod. From there, the law is subjected to more abuse from nocturnal animals that are constantly pray on these larvae, overturning patches of sod to reveal them.

But, when you choose synthetic grass lawns, your work is done. The product is guaranteed for years, and you are therefore able to do whatever you please throughout the summer and every other season, without ever taking your precious time a way to maintain it. It will always look great and envied by everyone.

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Different Types of Vacuum Pumps and Systems

Vacuum pumps and systems are necessary for maintaining the proper level of pressure in a system. They are used in countless applications in many different environments, from the home to large industrial complexes. Because liquids cannot be pulled, suction cannot be used to create a vacuum. Therefore it becomes necessary to create an artificial vacuum, and the easiest way that this can be accomplished is by expanding the air that is in a container. In order to evacuate a chamber constantly, these machines contain a compartment that is always being closed off, emptied, and them expanded once again. This is the principle by which these machines work.

Busch vacuum pumps and systems are now available in many different shapes and sizes. You will find that they operate on the same basic principles, but the larger ones for industrial needs are much more complex. The following is a brief list of the different types that have been developed so far:

o Rotary vane - by far the most commonly used

o Diaphragm - no contamination from oil

o Liquid ring

o Piston - the lowest price

o Scroll - features the highest speed for a dry pump

o External Vane

o Roots Blower - also known as a booster; it has a high pumping rate, but low compression

o Multistage roots - uses several stages to produce both high speeds and compression

Kinney vacuum pumps and systems also make use of several different types of techniques in order to achieve their purpose. Often times this involves the use of multiple chambers, pumps, and procedures. For example, positive displacement pumps can create only small vacuums due to mechanical limitations. These stronger vacuums must be created using a more complex series of stages typically starting out with a fast pump down. There are many different types of combinations that can be used in order to achieve the desired results.

So, now that you understand a bit more about how these Edwards vacuum pumps and systems work, it is time to discuss a few of the situations where they can be used. There are many different industries and uses for these machines, including, but not limited to the following: composite plastic molding, flight instruments in aircraft, the production of electric lamps and CRTs, processing of semiconductors, electron microscopy, vacuum coating, freeze drying, trash compacting, sewage treatment, and many more.

This article contains only a few examples of the many different options you have when it comes to vacuum pumps and systems. When looking for the right one for your application, it is a good idea to use the type of product that is recommended by the manufacturer or your equipment. While there are companies that deal in these products all over the world, you will get the best service when you choose someone close to you.

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Should You Alternate Patterns When Mowing Your Yard?

Many people in the world today are looking for ways to have a perfect yard. While watering, cutting, and fertilizing are all great ways to get that perfect yard, there is something else you can do.

Cutting your grass in different patterns every time you mow is a great way to relieve the stress that your yard receives from your lawn mower. If you constantly mow in the same direction every time, you run the risk of leaving compression marks that can damage your grass over time.

Much like the old wagon trails that cut across the plains in the move to go out west in the 1800's for the California Gold Rush, your lawn mower will compress the grass blades and the turf they are attached to and cause trails to start appear.

If you change your mowing direction every time you mow, these trails won't show up and you will get a more even cut. This will help your grass grow healthier and thicker in the long run. While it seems that this might make you a geek to some of your neighbors, they won't laugh after they see how great your yard looks.

The first time you mow your yard you should try going across it in a horizontal fashion. The next time you should mow it on the diagonal. This will help keep your grass from laying down in the same direction every time you mow and give your grass the time it needs to work its way straight again before you mow it the same direction. It might not make much sense to you at first, and you might not see any difference for the first season either, but with some patience you will notice the grass growing in thicker.

Not only should you try mowing your grass in a different direction every time you mow, but you shouldn't mow your grass too close to the ground either. When the temperature reaches its height in the summer, your grass can dry out and die off if it's cut too low. And don't forget to water your grass as deep as you can get it to make sure the water hits the roots.

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All About Superchargers

A supercharger, which is also known as a blower, is a mechanical device that is mechanically driven by belt, gear, or chain-drive of the engine's crankshaft. It is used to force more air into an engine but it is not necessarily a compressor. Today you get two types of superchargers; positive displacement devices that are blowers in the true sense of the word and are installed on top of the engine cover, and the more modern centrifugal devices that is more of a mechanically driven turbocharger that compresses air rather than just blowing air.

The classic positive displacement blower falls into two types: the Roots type and the Lysholm or twin screw. The Roots type operates by pulling air through a pair of meshing lobes by trapping the air in pockets surrounding the lobes and caring it from the intake side to the outlet side of the device. These type of superchargers operate a fixed speed in relation to the engine speed so that there is always some boost, even at low rpm and hence these devices do not cause lag. Boots is also constant right through the rev range and there's no threat of over boost.

Another positive displacement blower is the Lysholm or twin screw supercharger that is similar to the Roots type but it has one major difference; it is not just an air blower but an air compressor that builds boost pressure internally. This internal compression is created by the profile and shape of the counter-rotating lobes. The two lobes do not overlap completely, leaving a small air pocket between them, which become gradually smaller as the air pocket moves through the device, the result in air compression and an increase in air pressure. Unlike the lobes in a Roots supercharger, the lobes in twin-screw superchargers are manufactured to a high precision to ensure that internal leakage does not occur. This makes these devices more efficient but also expensive than the Roots type.

The last type of supercharger is the more modern centrifugal supercharger that has a lot more in common with a turbocharger than a blower in both design and function. Like turbochargers, centrifugal superchargers have a narrowing circular scroll through which air is forced to create internal boost pressure. Unlike other types of blowers, these devices use a step-up gears to increase the rate of air flow exponentially to the increase in engine speed making it more like a turbocharger. But the major difference between a turbocharger and centrifugal supercharger is that the latter is mechanically driven while the former is driven by exhaust energy. Another difference is that because it is mechanically driven, a centrifugal supercharger has a very slight amount of boost pressure at low rpm.

Of late the centrifugal supercharger has become more popular as it is smaller and easier to install than the positive displacement blowers.

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